The Caucus

Cut and Sew
Published: Monday 21st of September 2009 11:44:38 AM

Louis Vuitton got together with Parsons for a student design project called, appropriately, "Reconstruction."... MORE

Singing for My Supper
Published: Thursday 17th of September 2009 03:13:31 PM

If Ralph Lauren was down on his luck today, Isaac Mizrahi was pure jubilation. Taking a cue from a Broadway production, with a jazzy composition by Ethan Iverson, Mr. Mizrahi sent out a collection full of wit, soul and just a tiny bit of melancholy.... MORE

Ralph Lauren's Blues
Published: Thursday 17th of September 2009 11:14:15 AM

While not referring directly to the Great Depression, Ralph Lauren cited hard times as the inspiration for this morning's spring 2010 showing of faded jeans, bib overalls and humble floral dresses.... MORE

The NY Shows: Elegant Birds
Published: Thursday 17th of September 2009 08:38:11 AM

One can't minimize the recession and the impact it has had on millions of Americans. I'm sure many people question all the attention paid to skinny models in expensive clothes and the crowds flocking around them. It must seem silly-and, yes, at times it is.... MORE

Breakfast With Poiret, Lunch With Braveheart
Published: Tuesday 15th of September 2009 04:12:11 PM

"Be careful, Blanche," Simon Doonan said, casting an eye toward the black grit scattered on the concrete floor at the Rodarte show at the Gagosian Gallery. It made for a slippery entrance, and as editors' hooves made a crunch-crunch, I considered Sartre's words about hell.... MORE

Marc Jacobs: Now Man
Published: Monday 14th of September 2009 10:09:33 PM

Marc Jacobs, who divides his time between New York and Paris, where he also designs for Louis Vuitton, manages to stay one step ahead of the fashion pack.... MORE

The New York Shows: High on Something
Published: Monday 14th of September 2009 08:56:04 AM

Yesterday, as I came down the Bryant Park steps after the Diane von Furstenberg show, worming my through the picture-snapping onlookers, I saw an angel. She was about five feet tall, dressed in white tights with earphones strapped to her head, and she had on a pair of feathery wings.... MORE

On the First Day of Fashion ...
Published: Friday 11th of September 2009 06:25:42 AM

It is New York's peculiar duty to run its fashion week as a circus, a three-ring event beyond the runway, beyond new collections.... MORE

Policing the Frontier
Published: Monday 31st of August 2009 03:56:10 PM

It's one of the most ubiquitous labels in the world, and perhaps no company understands those implications better than Louis Vuitton. Last Friday, a California district court jury awarded $32.4 million in damages to Vuitton as part of a 2007 suit the Paris luxury maker brought against Akanoc Solutions, an Internet hosting company based in California.... MORE

Talking to Teller
Published: Thursday 27th of August 2009 11:22:53 AM

On Sept. 12, the photographer Juergen Teller and I will meet for an open discussion about his work. Teller, as just about everyone knows, has had a big influence on contemporary photography-through his personal work, his fashion images and advertising campaigns for designers like Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood. He's also a wonderful, funny conversationalist.... MORE

Fifth Avenue to Tokyo
Published: Wednesday 26th of August 2009 11:15:12 AM

"There's a certain demand that's gone with the asset destruction and the job destruction," a New York store executive told me the other day. That's the reality these days. Try as retailers might to entice customers into stores-with spiffy renovations at Saks and Bloomingdale's, some great-looking fall merchandise-there just isn't enough demand. Let's hope things pick up in ... MORE

"The September Issue"
Published: Thursday 20th of August 2009 10:01:44 AM

It seems smart to focus on what the editors of American Vogue do best: put out blockbuster issues that remind everyone else-the competition, the trembling designers, the fawning retailers-of their editorial power.... MORE

Slowly Toward Fall
Published: Friday 14th of August 2009 12:19:52 PM

I noticed the other day that Barneys' windows are displaying the new Rochas line by Marco Zanini, who worked briefly at Halston after a long run as chief design assistant at Versace. I'm a fan of Zanini, and I was glad to see the window treatment at Barneys. But the July retail sales numbers are downright discouraging. Between May 2009 and July 2009, retail sales were off 9 ... MORE

1969: That Summer
Published: Tuesday 11th of August 2009 03:50:32 PM

I was sitting with Josie Bonnie on the hood of the Bonnie family clunker on Main Street in Nantucket. It was August 1969, and the older kids, we kept hearing for a week, were leaving the island for a music festival in a place called Woodstock.... MORE

Models Multitasking
Published: Friday 10th of July 2009 02:20:21 PM

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times Sasha Pivovarova. Between makeup and blow dryer, our photographer caught Sasha Pivovarova sketching backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier.... MORE

Paris Couture: Valentino
Published: Thursday 9th of July 2009 02:15:38 PM

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times A piece from the Valentino haute couture collection in Paris. Watching the Valentino show last night, I couldn't help but think of the lovely dresses Alessandra Facchinetti had in her one couture collection before she was dismissed from the house. I remembered the delicate fabrics, the cream tones [...]... MORE

Under the Hollywood Sky
Published: Thursday 9th of July 2009 04:23:56 AM

Jacques Brinon/Associated Press Jean-Paul Gaultier's Fall-Winter 2009-2010 fashion collection. First, let me mention that Mickey Rourke attended the Jean Paul Gaultier show. I rarely think of Mr. Rourke but I never think of him in terms of haute couture. He had on a black jacket and jeans, something. He was engulfed by photographers and cameramen as [...]... MORE

Chanel, Now and Then
Published: Tuesday 7th of July 2009 05:54:06 PM

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times The runway at the Chanel spring haute show in Paris. Yesterday around 5:30 p.m., I popped in to see Karl Lagerfeld. The studio was moderately crowded: one or two editors parked at one end of Mr. Lagerfeld's big desk and several Chanel executives at the other. Models-Freja, Snejana and [...]... MORE

All in the Family
Published: Tuesday 7th of July 2009 02:09:26 PM

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times Models pose wearing creations by Christian Lacroix before his couture presentation. Christian Lacroix is certainly wealthy in friends. Despite heavy financial pressures, he managed to present a fall haute couture collection of 24 looks at Les Arts Decoratifs. The couture show may be his last, unless his company's owner, [...]... MORE

Dior: She's Come Undone
Published: Tuesday 7th of July 2009 03:44:20 AM

The black and white images from Paris dressing rooms in the 1950s, when models stood around in their bras and girdles, provided inspiration to John Galliano for his fall couture show.... MORE

Impossible Time
Published: Tuesday 7th of July 2009 03:38:46 AM

A literary scene at the Paris fashion shows. Literally.... MORE

Louise Wilson: Listen Up
Published: Monday 6th of July 2009 10:47:04 AM

Today in Paris, before Alber Elbaz presented an early spring collection to some editors gathered at the Crillon, he said, "It's kind of an emotional season in haute couture, because a lot of us are questioning." Well, yes: questioning the future of the craft, the role of the Internet and big brands. Designers like Mr. Elbaz [...]... MORE

Paris Men's: Here and Yonder
Published: Sunday 28th of June 2009 07:05:35 AM

Raf Simons wants to be absolutely clear, and that was expressed in the precision of the styling and the clothes.... MORE

Paris: Boys Town
Published: Friday 26th of June 2009 07:27:25 PM

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times The runway at the Rick Owens spring 2010 show in Paris. Tonight, as the spring men's collections rolled on, John Galliano used an abandoned public swimming pool asthe setting for a show that made reference to Napoleon Bonaparte, Lawrence of Arabia (the Peter O'Toole Lawrence), Abel Gance, and the [...]... MORE

Bruce the Great: Woof!
Published: Wednesday 17th of June 2009 05:03:01 PM

Courtesy of Moncler An image from Moncler's new advertising campaign, photographed by Bruce Weber. Moncler's new advertising campaign, photographed by Bruce Weber, with a self portrait among the images that will appear in magazines this fall, reminds us that advertising can often be more directional than editorial. Think of the influence that Weber himself has [...]... MORE

CFDA Finale
Published: Monday 15th of June 2009 08:26:20 PM

Women's Designer of the Year: Rodarte. DVF also gave a special award to Michelle Obama (seen in a video thank you), with a montage of images.... MORE

CFDA: "One Outfit at a Time" (zzzzz)
Published: Monday 15th of June 2009 08:15:01 PM

Oh, hello. Back for the Swarovski young designer awards. For men's: Tim Hamilton, whose first words for "Wow, I didn't really prepare a speech." For accessories: Subversive. And women's: Alexander Wang (in shorts).... MORE

And the Winners Are…
Published: Monday 15th of June 2009 07:49:27 PM

For accessories: Proenza Schouler. The first Popular Vote Award: Ralph Lauren (in tuxedo jacket and jeans). Men's wear designer: Scott Sternberg and Italo Zucchelli, a tie. Jacobs is about to receive the international award-given by Antoine Arnault. More to come…... MORE

At the CFDA Awards
Published: Monday 15th of June 2009 07:03:54 PM

Marc Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy are sitting in the row in front of me, with folks from Vogue in front of them. Tracey Ullman has just come on the stage, saluting Diane Von Furstenberg and Michelle Obama. The theatre is packed. Here we go…... MORE

The New Celine
Published: Friday 12th of June 2009 11:33:36 AM

Courtesy of Celine Looks from the new Céline collection. Yesterday, Phoebe Philo showed reporters and retailers a selection of clothes and accessories that will begin arriving in Celine stores in late November. It was the first glimpse here of Ms. Philo's designs for the Paris-based company since she was hired last year. The low-key presentation was [...]... MORE

Big Pic: Further Thoughts
Published: Wednesday 10th of June 2009 03:09:17 PM

Thanks, everyone, for the comments and discussion on the previous post. If you didn't see the Wall Street Journal's recent section on its D: All Things Digital conference, with interviews with Carol Bartz of Yahoo and John Malone of Liberty Media, among others, I suggest you have a look. I found particularly illuminating the Q [...]... MORE

The Bigger Picture
Published: Friday 5th of June 2009 12:11:54 PM

A few nights ago the Times played host to the 6th annual Citi Women & Co. event, and I was asked to speak about fashion and the economy, with a look back at previous recession and a look forward to some of the challenges facing the industry. About 200 people attended the cocktail-hour event, and [...]... MORE

At the Resorts
Published: Wednesday 3rd of June 2009 11:58:26 AM

"Oh, I thought this was going to be a small presentation," said an editor, stepping off the elevator this morning at Calvin Klein on West 39th Street. Not so. Resort collections have a life of their own, and they are a bigger deal than they used to be, with more media coverage. In its pale earth [...]... MORE

Project Bike Lane
Published: Tuesday 2nd of June 2009 09:10:45 PM

Marilynn K. Yee/The New York Times Jessica Velasques, above, with her winning designs from the "Bike in Style Challenge." There are many reasons why New York City commuters have been hesitant to bicycle to work in greater numbers: personal safety, the scarce availability of bike racks and the weather, among them. A perhaps more superficial, [...]... MORE

Bikini Mowing
Published: Monday 1st of June 2009 04:29:37 PM

The summer issue of Acne Magazine. After a couple of weeks off-the mowing and weeding took longer than usual and Toby the Lab insisted on riding shotgun-I return to a round of resort showings and part-tays. Oh, life must go on. Calvin Klein, Prada and Celine (by Phoebe Philo, of course) are on the resort [...]... MORE

Anna Wintour on "60 Minutes"
Published: Monday 18th of May 2009 12:45:49 PM

After last night's segment on Vogue chief Anna Wintour on "60 Minutes" I almost miss the vicious 80s.... MORE

Dovima & Co.: Avedon's Women
Published: Friday 15th of May 2009 10:54:25 AM

Last night a friend and I went to the opening of the Richard Avedon fashion exhibition at the International Center of Photography. The Town Cars were double parked at the corner of Sixth Avenue and 43rd Street when we arrived, around 6:45, and there was a throng of guests inside. "Dovima with Elephants," taken in [...]... MORE

'The Model as Muse': Behind the Sitting
Published: Wednesday 6th of May 2009 12:02:51 AM

Last night at the Met, before the trumpet toot for dinner, I asked veteran models to tell the story behind some of their shoots. I happened to be in the 1960s room, standing next to a cover portrait of Marisa Berenson by Irving Penn when Berenson, dressed in a lovely pink Dior dress, entered with [...]... MORE

More From the Met
Published: Tuesday 5th of May 2009 12:46:23 PM

There was a lot to see at the Costume Institute gala Monday night, beyond the short dresses and platform heels that seemed to be the fashion message of the night. (Gisele Bundchen in Versace, Kate Moss and Anne Hathaway in Marc Jacobs and Kerry Washington in Louis Vuitton were among the best examples.) With the [...]... MORE

Met Gala: Stephanie Seymour Will Stay Home, Too
Published: Monday 4th of May 2009 03:40:36 PM

Supermodel Stephanie Seymour says she won't be attending tonight's gala for the "Model as Muse" show. "Azzedine has made my dress for every single ball," Seymour said this afternoon. "I had a fitting in Paris. But then he called me over the weekend and asked me not to wear the dress. I will still make [...]... MORE

 

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